Mushrooms - User contributions [en]

Perfect Oats Grain Bags

2024-02-15T16:29:21Z

Gert: /* Method: */

Here is how I make my grain bags, I have used a similar method for jars, however the water content will be significantly different.

== Why Oats? ==
After experimenting with many different grains and ended up using oats as there are multiple advantages of using oats over other grains in my opinion.

Pros:

* Very nutritious
* Least labour intensive
* Easy to work with
* Cheap
* Predictable outcome

Cons

* Requires longer sterilization cycle

== What you will need: ==

==== Ingredients: ====

# Whole Oats Grains (must be whole, not crushed or rolled)
# Water

==== Equipment Required: ====

# Unicorn 3T Grow Bags or similar (Must have a 0.2 micron filter patch designed for spawn production)
# Scale
# Laminar Flow Hood
# Impulse sealer
# Pressure Canner/Cooker/Autoclave

== Method: ==
I like to make 2.5KG spawn per bag, if you want to make smaller bags just do some math.

[[File:Oats 1333g.jpeg|center]]
Ok, start off by by weighing out 1.333kg of grains
 
[[File:Oats In Bag.jpg|center]]
Gently add the dry grains to the bag, no need to prep or rinse it in anyway, Make sure to keep the insides of the bag as clean as possible, if you get some dust from the oats on the insides of the bag wipe it off with a damp paper towel, this is necessary to ensure a nice vacuum seal in the PC.
 
[[File:Oats 6 bags .jpg|center]]
I have a 40L Pressure Canner that can fit 6 of these bags so I make 6 at a time.
 
[[File:Oats added water.jpg|center]]
Next add 1.2L of boiling water into the bag, try to pour the water in without making contact with the sides of the bags and fold the bag along the creases, if the hot water comes in contact with the sides it will make it more difficult to fold the bag.
 
[[File:Oats Soak.jpg|center]]
Now let the bag soak for around 15 to 20 minutes, then flip it on its side and let it soak for another 15 to 20 minutes, then flip it over to the other side and wait another 15 to 20 minutes. The reason for this is 2 fold, firstly so the grains can expand a bit before putting it into the PC and thus decrease the chance of burst bags due to expanding in the PC, and secondly for moisture distribution.
 
[[File:Oats bag folded.jpg|center]]
After soaking, as neatly as possible, fold the bag nicely along the creases and fold the top over and under the bag with the filter patch on the outside.
 
[[File:Loading PC.jpg|center]]
Carefully load the bags into the PC, The picture above shows all 6 bags stacked on top of each over in the PC. Then place something on top of the bags like a trivet or a ceramic plate, this safety precaution is very important and will prevent the bags unfolding and blocking the valves of the PC, unless if making a bomb is your intention, then you can skip this step :)

if you only want to sterilize one or 2 bags you can wrap an elastic band around the bag to keep it in place

Now it is time to sterilize, Oats require a longer sterilization cycle then some other grains, one reason is because we did not soak it for 12 hours or longer and endospore germination did not take place. Oats need to be sterilized for a minimum of 2.5 hours, because my bags are quite big I like to make sure and run it for 3.5 hours. After the PC cycle is complete, turn off the heat and allow 24 hours (in my case) for the pressure to naturally release and for the PC and its contents to cool down completely. Do NOT open the PC before then, if you do then the bags will suck in dirty air and you will most likely end up with contaminated bags.
 
[[File:After PC.jpg|center]]
After the PC cycle the bags would have expanded some more and look like this. The bags can now be taken out to be sealed one by one.
 
[[File:Vacuum seal.jpg|center]]
The bags should now have a nice vacuum seal.
 
[[File:Sealing Bag.jpg|center]]
Have your impulse sealer ready in front of the flow hood. Open the bag in front of the flow hood with the opening facing the airflow, then massage the grains to loosen then up and to allow some sterile air to enter the bag and then seal the bag. Inspect the seal closely and make sure it was sealed properly before moving on to the next bag. It is always a good idea to make a second seal just in case.
 
[[File:Bags Drying.jpg|center]]
After sealing the bag mix it up thoroughly to redistribute the moisture and lay it flat like in the picture above. Mix it up every few hours for a day or so until the inside of the bag looks dry and there are no moisture visible.
 
[[File:Bags Ready for use.jpg|center]]
Congratulations, now your grain bags are ready for use. Perfectly hydrated yet dry grains ready for inoculation. If you like you can wait a week or so just to make sure everything was done correctly and there is no contamination. If you feel confidant then go for gold!

I hope my technique changes your life like it changed mine, happy growing!

2022-12-21T12:04:46Z

Gert:

Oats bag folded

2022-12-21T10:23:18Z

Gert:

Perfect Oats Grain Bags

2022-12-21T10:19:40Z

Gert:

Perfect Oats Grain Bags

2022-12-21T10:13:09Z

Gert: Created page with "Here is how I make my grain bags, I have used a similar method for jars, however the water content will be significantly different. == Why Oats? == After experimenting with m..."

Casing Layer

2022-07-27T22:58:01Z

Gert: /* Applying the Casing Layer: */

== What is a Casing Layer? ==
A casing should be a non-nutritious top layer that is placed over a colonized substrate, if you use a nutritious casing it will be colonized by the mycelium and then it will no longer be a casing. The purpose of a casing is to create a microclimate above the substrate to help induce pinning, it also supplies moisture to the substrate and the developing fruits and prevents the substrate from drying out too quickly. The high-humidity microclimate helps to minimize side pinning by making the conditions at the top of the cake more favorable for fruiting than the sides. Some casings also contain microorganisms that are both necessary for fruit-body formation in some species, and can also help fight off contaminations.

=== Benefits of a Casing Layer ===
* Provides a humid microclimate on the surface of the substrate in lower humidity environments.
* Prevents the substrate from drying out too quickly in lower humidity environments.
* Supplies moisture to the substrate and developing fruits.
* Helps prevent side pinning.
* Some species won’t fruit at all without the application of a casing.

=== Downfalls of a Casing Layer ===

* Casing layers do involve an extra step in the growing process, which means more time and resources to get the job done.
* They can also be susceptible to contamination, especially in fruiting environments with limited amounts of fresh air.

== When to use a Casing Layer? ==
Since not all mushrooms really benefit from a casing layer, using one can sometimes be counterproductive. So use it if you have to, otherwise don't. Cubensis generally don't require a casing when fruiting in a Monotub or SGFC (with the exception of a few slow fruiting strains like Penis Envy) as the humidity is easily kept to near 100% due to the small size. When using a grow tent you should always use a casing as the humidity is lower (around 90%) and fluctuates a lot, if you don't you will get side pins galore and the substrate will dry out more quickly.

== How to make a Casing Layer ==
There are many ways to skin a cat, but here's how I do it:

==== Ingredients: ====

* 1x Cup of Peat Moss (1 Part) - Must be plain organic, without any additives, some manufacturers add nutrients to their product.
* 1x Cup of Vermiculite (1 Part)
* 1x Tablespoon of [[Gypsum]] to the Peat (10% to the Peat)
* 1x Teaspoon of Hydrated Lime (3.3% to the Peat)
* Approximately 100ml water per cup of Peat

==== Directions: ====

# Place the Peat Moss in a mixing bowl and use your fingers to break everything up to a fine powder, the finer the better.
# Add the [[Gypsum]] and Hydrated Lime to the bowl and mix well.
# Slowly add the water and bring to field capacity, you want no water to drip when you pick up a hand full, and a little stream of water when you squeeze.
# Place the Vermiculite in a separate bowl and cover completely with water. Let it soak for a bit and then strain the water off properly.
# Now combine the Vermiculite and Peat and mix well.

==== Pasteurization: ====
Now that we have made our casing it needs to be pasteurized before we can use it as a casing layer is prone to some form of contamination. It needs to be pasteurized and NOT sterilized. Sterilizing it will kill off the beneficial microorganisms that is responsible for simulating primordia and fighting off competitor fungi like Trichoderma and other molds.

Pasteurize the casing for around 1 hour. You want the inside of the mixture to reach a temperature between 60C and 80C and keep it there for 30 mins. For best results use a probe thermometer to see when the mixture reaches pasteurization temperature and eliminate the guesswork.

After pasteurization let it cool down to room temperature before using it, otherwise it will harm your mycelium.

== Applying the Casing Layer: ==
Gently cover the top of your substrate with a thin layer of casing material. You want all the mycelium to be covered so that none of it is visible. There is no need to be super sterile during this process but do it with clean and sanitized hands or even better, wear nitrile gloves.

== Extra notes: ==
An acidic casing layer will favor Trichoderma and other molds, while established mushroom mycelium is more tolerant of a higher pH. Peat Moss is naturally acidic, that's why we use the Hydrated Lime to raise the pH to a starting point of around pH8 and to make it inhospitable to competitor fungi. I use Sphagnum Peat Moss which is pH balanced so I use about half the Hydrated Lime (1x teaspoon per 2x cups of Peat). Before I pasteurize I test the pH with a soil pH meter and adjust accordingly.

The [[Gypsum]] contains both calcium carbonate and sulfur, thus it tends to keep the pH near neutral, acting as a pH buffer and preventing swings as the metabolites try to push the pH down.

Obviously you can adjust the recipe to make more should you need to, rather make too much than too little. Double this recipe is precisely enough to fill a 1L mason jar.

2020-12-01T10:56:35Z

Gert: Gert uploaded a new version of File:Gypsum.jpg

Gypsum

2020-12-01T10:51:48Z

Gert:

[[File:Gypsum.jpg|border]]

Gypsum is the common name for calcium sulfate (CaSO4) and consists of calcium carbonate and sulfur. It is a greyish powder used for making cement and drywall.

The main reason we use Gypsum is to add calcium carbonate and sulfur to substrate and casing material, which helps to stabilize PH levels to near neutral so it acts as a PH buffer as well as adding minerals which are beneficial for fruiting. It is also used in grain spawn preparation to prevent the grains from clumping.

It is NOT used to adjust pH levels as many believe.

Main Page

2020-12-01T10:50:10Z

Gert:

<div>[[File:Mushroom-fp1.jpg|center|link=]]

<big>'''Welcome to Mushrooms.org.za'''</big>

<big>Growing your own mushrooms is not a hobby, it is a lifestyle, but with all the contradicting information out there it can be really frustrating, time consuming and even expensive to figure out what is right and what is wrong. This website aims to eliminate the guesswork and to provide only tried and tested 100% accurate information on mushroom cultivation, particularly (but not limited to) Psilocybe Cubensis.</big>
</div>

2020-11-27T15:25:29Z

Gert:

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Mushrooms.org.za}}
<div>[[File:Mushroom-fp1.jpg|center]]</div>

<big>'''Welcome to Mushrooms.org.za'''</big>

<big>Growing your own mushrooms is not a hobby, it is a lifestyle, but with all the contradicting information out there it can be really frustrating, time consuming and even expensive to figure out what is right and what is wrong. This website aims to eliminate the guesswork and to provide only tried and tested 100% accurate information on mushroom cultivation, particularly (but not limited to) Psilocybe Cubensis.</big>